This year I resolved to do something about this strange behavioural trait and suspecting that my prayers for a cool overcast summer might go unanswered, I set about looking for somewhere that fishes well in August. Well, I found a couple of gems set in Austria and you'll be hard pushed to find rivers in a more picturesque setting. My dilemma was how to 'sell' the trip to 'The Fishing Wench' and here Salzburg's rich cultural heritage came to my rescue. The Salzburg Festival is a cornucopia of concerts mainly on a Mozart theme and, more importantly to me, lasts for the whole of August. The cast was made, the drift was perfect, the rise came and the offering suspiciously taken - off I rushed to the nearest travel agents with a plan for a couple of days in Salzburg and then onwards to some serious fishing.

In the mountainous area of Ostirol is the Dolomite capital Lienz, which is situated at the confluence of the Little Drau and the Isel. Downstream the river becomes the Greater Drau, famous for its Danube Salmon and large Grayling. From the end of May through August, the water takes on a milky appearance as the levels rise from snowmelt carried down the Isel from the Tauern Mountains. September onwards, the levels drop and the transformation is complete with clear turquoise water and lies easily spotted. I was here to fish the Little Drau, a small fast flowing river that fishes through the whole year - this is the home of the Brown, Brook and Rainbow trout which breed naturally in these cool pure waters. Fish were sheltering in the eddies behind large rocks or just down from the lip of the many small runs, where they succumbed to Czech nymphs or a Peeping Caddis. You just couldn't go wrong, there were fish behind every boulder and a half day's leisurely wander upstream brought seventeen fish to hand. The Rainbows average around a pound and are a Grayling-like silvery grey with only the faintest hint of a mauve band and I should imagine they're the devil to spot in clear water.

The next port of call was the many waters managed by the Bräurup Hotel in Mittersill and their flagship water, the Krimmler Ache, will knock you out. This is one of the prettiest settings I know of ! At an elevation above 1600m its situation, in the Hohe Tauern National Park, has some breathtaking alpine scenery with a backdrop of snow covered peaks and has got to be one of the prettiest settings I've fished in. Up at that height, the water is only fishable for a few months a year but providing the weather gods are smiling, can provide superb sport. As the day progresses, you may notice the water turning milkier as the sun starts melting the snow on the nearby peaks and you'll have to fish here in September, when the peaks start freezing, if you want clear water conditions. Only eight anglers a day are allowed on this lengthy stretch of water, it's strictly Catch & Release and can only be reached by taxis that are licensed to enter the park. For those of you that like to intersperse your day with a little light lunch and copious amounts of beer, fear not as the Krimmler Ache has bars housed in rustic farm buildings dotted along its length. Here the weary fisherman can hang up his rod for a while whilst musing over the successes and failures so far and plot anew his strategy. Brook and Brown trout are abundant and through its length you can find every type of water imaginable, from tumbling mountain stream to slow flowing meanders. In its higher elevations the Brookies will jump on almost any terrestrial imitation presented as they seize upon every rare morsel that passes by.

I like my food as much as the next person and the standard of cuisine in Austria is excellent; I heartily recommend the native dishes. The Bräurup's cuisine and the size of their appetisers match their choice of waters - expansive. They offer around 30 Catch & Release locations that cover over 135km of river and alpine lakes; if you can't find something to suit your taste I'd be most surprised. In addition, they have a fully stocked fly-shop, guide service and tying bench that is the focal point for dissecting the day's fishing.

Planning a Trip

Before we go on to address things of a piscatorial nature, if you do require some dressing-up of your 'fishing trip' in order to sell it, then Salzburg is a great place to see and the festival programme (www.salzburgfestival.at) is extremely extensive.

Nearly all Austrian waters are in the hands of individuals, fishing associations or hotels and guesthouses but there are plenty of opportunities for the fly-fisherman. Permits can be purchased from many of the tackle shops and hotels that control the water but check that the license cost is included in the permit. The waters above are controlled by the Hotel Sonne in Lienz (email:lienz.sonne@netway.at) and the Bräurup Hotel in Mittersill (www.braurup.at). Both these hotels and many more feature in an excellent brochure 'Fischen in Österreich', details of which can be found at www.tiscover.com/fischwasser but you may be able to get it from the Austrian National Tourist Office situated in your own country's capital.

If you fancy sightseeing or the non-fishing members are looking for something to do, then there's a host of activities and sights. The ski lifts are open to take you up to the peaks and the many alpine walks will take you off the beaten track. For those that are more sports orientated then there are excellent mountain bike trails, paragliding or for the more sedate, golf. The Hohe Tauern National Park (www.hohetauern.at), which is home to Austria's largest mountain the Großglocker, is an absolute must-do. It's roads are not for the faint hearted, as their steep twists and turns will take you perilously close to the edge but reward you with stunning views. There are various visitor centres spread around the park that deal with different subjects, one of them overlooks a glacier where you can catch a glimpse of the Alpine Marmot - little furry things equivalent to beavers on steroids that have taken up high altitude rock climbing but without the tail.

© Budget Angler 2000 - Krimmler Ache photo by kind permission of Martin Joergensen